Bias binding. I always think bias binding is one of those finishing techniques that looks really neat and professional. It’s a popular finish for armholes and necklines, when you just don’t want a bulky facing getting in the way and it’s also really easy to sew!
There are a few different ways to sew bias binding, but in this post I am going to show you how I sew a non-visible bias binding . In other words, the bias tape won’t show on the outside of the garment and will be concealed inside. All you will see from the outside is one row of stitching!
So, if you want to learn how to sew a neat, non-visible bias binding neckline or armhole finish, keep reading!
P.s – The bias binding technique shown here works perfectly on the Hayley vest top. You can find the pattern here!
Step 1: Start by pressing one of the folded edges of your bias tape open, so that it lies relatively flat. Then at one end of the bias tape, fold over 2cm and press into place.
Step 2: Align the crease of the fold you just made, with your underarm or neckline seam so that the remainder 2cm you folded over extends past the seam. Pin your bias tape to your garment, with the raw sides of the bias tape and fabric together.
Step 3: Continue to pin your bias tape around the entire opening. When you end up back at your start point, overlap your binding 2cm over where you originally left that 2cm fold and cut the remainder of your tape away. You should now have two tail ends that are both 2cm long.
Then, place your tail ends together, with right sides facing and place a pin to hold these together, 2cm from the end of the tape. You will come back to this later!
Step 4: Start about 1-2cm away from this join and begin to sew your bias tape to your garment, following the crease from the fold you originally pressed out. Be sure to backstitch at the start, and continue all the way around until you are 1-2cm away from the pin you placed to join the bias tape. Backstitch to secure.
Step 6: Take your garment out of the machine and trim your threads. You now want to sew a vertical seam across the bias tape, where you placed your pin to hold the two pieces together. Make sure to pull your tape out the way of your garment while you sew this seam. Trim the remainder seam allowance and press flat.
You can now sew this last part of bias tape flat onto your garment, along the same crease you were following before.
Step 7: Press this finished edge up towards the binding and away from the garment.
Step 8: Now it’s time to understitch. To do this, you will sew along the right side of your bias tape, stitching the seam allowance you just pressed up towards the bias tape. This will help to keep your bias tape on the inside of the garment when we’re done. Understitching means that the stitching will only show on the inside of the garment, and will not show on the outer layer, as you will not be sewing through your fabric in this step. This step is optional, and binding can be finished without the understitching, however I personally always do this step as it ensures your bias tape won’t poke out on the right side of the garment, and it gives a nice clean finish.
Step 9: This is the final step! Take your bias tape and turn it so that it is on the inside of the garment. Pin this into place all the way around. The inside edge of the bias tape is pre-folded, meaning that there will be no raw edges visible when you’re finished. Stitch the bias tape into place, as close to the edge of the tape as possible.
Give it one last press, and that’s your binding done!
What do you think? Will you give bias binding a go on your next project?